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Chef Eric McCarthy, a veteran of Tamarind and Tulsi, reconfigured Cobble Hill restaurant Indian Table seven months ago, wiping out its rather conventional menu and substituting one rich in regional dishes from the northern and southern regions of the subcontinent, and featuring some dishes that were pure inventions. Many of the regional recipes hail from Goa, his home state, including Goan shrimp in a creamy, coconut-milk gravy tinted purplish with mangosteen, and caldo verde, an adapted Portuguese soup. The chicken vindaloo seems mild in comparison with a fiery chicken chettinad, and an invented dish of compressed cubes of paneer arrives veined with basil and topped with cranberry chutney. The interior will remind you of the hold of a merchant ship.

A selection of dishes from Indian Table. Robert Sietsema/Eater NY